On Singapore's Hawker Culture

SPEECH ON SINGAPORE’S HAWKER CULTURE

By Denise Phua

Hawker culture, recognised by UNESCO as part of our intangible cultural heritage, is not just about food. It is about a way of life that brings together Singaporeans from all walks of life, around the humble dining table of our hawker centres.

First, on Singapore's support-hawker measures. In recent years, we have the Singapore Government, including MSE and NEA, stepping up significantly to support and preserve hawker culture. During the COVID-19 pandemic, for instance, the Government implemented several measures to protect hawkers. Rental and table-cleaning waivers and salary subsidies through the Jobs Support Scheme were granted to ease the financial strain during these uncertain times. CDC Vouchers were also introduced to encourage locals to support their neighbourhood hawkers. These initiatives were designed to help hawkers sustain their livelihoods through challenging times, such as the COVID-19 pandemic.

Post-COVID-19, the support continues. Policies aimed to sustain the hawking industry were introduced. Some have been fairly successful and some not so, but I know the Government is closely looking at these. These include the revised rent control measures, a suite of hawker training programmes to increase the replacement rate of hawkers, the Hawkers' Productivity Grant and the Hawkers Go Digital Programme; and of course, the ongoing CDC Vouchers. 

In fact, the budget for CDC Vouchers, originally intended only for lower-income households, was substantially increased after the Mayors appealed and worked with the Ministry of Finance to extend them to every Singaporean household. So, big thanks to the Ministers for Finance – then, Deputy Prime Minister Heng Swee Keat and now, Prime Minister Lawrence Wong. A unique feature in the safety net, the CDC Voucher scheme has the dual purpose of supporting both Singaporeans and the heartland businesses, especially hawkers. This support is still ongoing. I thank PSP and PAP MPs alike for agreeing that the CDC Vouchers are, indeed, useful.

Next, on the importance of infrastructure improvements. Infrastructure improvements are another critical element of preserving hawker culture. Over the years, NEA has initiated several programmes to modernise and maintain hawker centres. NEA-managed hawker centres have seen substantial upgrades in facilities, cleanliness and ventilation, ensuring that patrons can enjoy a pleasant dining experience. These physical improvements are not merely cosmetic. They are essential to the continuity of hawker culture. A clean, safe and well-ventilated environment encourages patrons to return and also helps retain hawkers to stay on in their trade and jobs.

Let me touch a bit about NEA-managed and Town-Council-managed hawker centres. Besides social enterprises which manage hawker centres, the Town Councils also manage hawker centres.

NEA, with its resources and expertise, has been able to uphold high operational standards in the NEA-managed hawker centres, whereas the Town Councils face some limitations, due to their smaller budgets and also fewer specialised resources, as they were primarily set up to serve residential estates. Town Councils primarily rely on S&CCs from stallholders, which are usually insufficient to cover the extensive maintenance costs required to match NEA standards.

This resource gap is particularly evident in our Central District hawker centres, such as People's Park Complex, Albert Centre and Chinatown Complex, which serve not only local residents but also a significant number of tourists. These prominent centres managed by Town Councils require substantial maintenance to uphold the standards expected of national landmarks, yet the Town Councils often lack the necessary funds and specialised management expertise. 

So, in light of these challenges, I propose that NEA categorise or tier the types of hawker centres and even coffee shops and allocate its resources and expertise accordingly. I do not think that NEA should take over the running of all hawker centres, but I do urge NEA to assume responsibility for managing and maintaining key national iconic hawker centres, such as Albert Centre, People's Park and Chinatown Complex, that serve mostly non-residents versus residents. By doing so, NEA can apply its specialised expertise and substantial resources to ensure that these centres continue to reflect the high standards associated with Singapore's hawker culture.

Alternatively, if taking over these iconic hawker centres is too daunting for now and actually needs further review, then I urge NEA to consider providing a resource package or support framework for these specific centres, acknowledging the unique demands placed on them as tourist hotspots and cultural icons.

Next, on the need to look beyond financial incentives to sustain and grow Singapore's hawker culture. In a survey quoted in a 2024 Lee Kwan Yew School of Public Policy article, "Cooking or Cooked: The Future of Singapore's Hawker Culture", 87% of respondents stated they do not want to be hawkers, quoting long working hours and lack of interest. Hawking is also perceived to be a job that reaps modest income. 

These root causes are not easy to solve and will take more than financial resources and incentives. Are all hawkers and hawker centres equal? Which ones should be managed by the State and which ones by Town Councils or social enterprises? If the Government were to subsidise the costs of operating hawking businesses, especially in housing estates with predominantly Singapore residents, then can or should they reserve the right to at least control the rental and ensure budget meals for Singaporeans? "Budget meals" is not a dirty term. Actually, it is quite useful. These are some of the questions that we have to and need to be reckoned with, as we review how to support and promote hawker culture.  

In conclusion, Mr Speaker, Sir, hawker culture is a cornerstone of our heritage. The root issues of declining margins and the reluctance of younger Singaporeans to enter this industry are not easy to resolve and need to be recognised. So, let us work together – Government agencies, Town Councils, social enterprises, hawkers and citizens – to ensure that this heritage remains accessible and affordable for generations to come. With this, I support the Motion as amended by hon Member Edward Chia.

Community, MP, ParliamentDenise PhuaSpeech